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Training gear

The gear the lessons use, and what to look for

You don’t need much to train a dog: treats, a leash and five minutes. This is the full list of what our lessons ask for, why each thing helps, and what to check before you buy. Nothing here is required to start today.

The links below open a search so you can compare options. We don’t sell these items.

For every session

You can start today with treats from the fridge and a pocket. These make it easier.

  • Every lesson pays your dog for getting it right. You’ll use 15 to 20 a session.

    What to look for: Soft, smelly and pea-sized, or easy to break up. Your dog should be able to swallow one in a second. Keep two grades: everyday ones for the kitchen, and something special (cheese, chicken) for outdoors.

    Used in: All lessons

  • Timing matters: the treat should arrive within a second or two of “Yes!”. Digging in a pocket is too slow.

    What to look for: Opens and closes with one hand, clips to a belt or waistband, and wipes clean.

    Used in: All lessons, especially leash walking and recall

  • The settle lesson gives your dog a spot to lie down and do nothing. A mat is portable, so calm comes with you.

    What to look for: Non-slip underneath, easy to roll up and washable. A bath mat or folded towel works to begin with.

    Used in: Settle on a mat, the doorbell routine, mat for arrivals

  • The plan uses the word “Yes!” as a marker, and the app has a click button built in. Some people like a real clicker for its sharp, identical sound.

    What to look for: Any basic box clicker. A quieter one suits sound-sensitive dogs.

    Used in: Optional in all lessons

For walks and recall

The right gear won’t teach loose-leash walking, but the wrong gear makes it harder.

  • A fixed length teaches your dog exactly how much slack there is. Retractable leashes pay out more line when the dog pulls, which rewards pulling.

    What to look for: A plain six-foot leash with a comfortable handle. Not retractable.

    Used in: All four leash lessons

  • A clip at the chest turns your dog slightly toward you when they pull, so pulling gets them less far. It manages pulling while you train; it doesn’t replace the training.

    What to look for: A leash ring on the chest, adjustable straps, and a fit that doesn’t rub behind the front legs. Measure your dog before ordering.

    Used in: Leash lessons, recall on a long line

  • Lets your dog explore and practice coming back outdoors without the risk of them leaving.

    What to look for: 15 to 30 feet, light for small dogs, and easy to grip when wet. Always clip it to a harness, never a collar: a sudden stop at the end can hurt the neck.

    Used in: Outdoors on a long line, emergency recall

For puppies and time alone

Most of house training and crate training is managing where your puppy can be when you can’t watch.

  • A safe place to rest, and a help with house training because most dogs avoid soiling where they sleep.

    What to look for: Big enough for your dog to stand, turn around and lie flat as an adult. A divider lets you make it smaller while they’re growing.

    Used in: Crate and home alone lessons, potty accidents

  • Keeps your puppy close when you can’t watch, gives you somewhere to step away from biting, and stops jumping on guests being practiced.

    What to look for: Tall enough that your dog can’t jump it, with bars they can’t squeeze through.

    Used in: Potty accidents, biting, guests at the door

  • Ordinary cleaners leave a scent that tells a dog “toilet here.” Enzymatic ones break it down.

    What to look for: The word “enzymatic” on the label. Soak the spot and let it air dry, following the bottle.

    Used in: Handling accidents

  • Gives your dog a clear way to ask to go out once the schedule is working.

    What to look for: Hanging bells or a floor button. Either works.

    Used in: Longer gaps and asking to go

For biting, chewing and calm

A puppy’s mouth needs a job. These give it one.

  • Redirects biting onto something legal and keeps your hands well away from the teeth.

    What to look for: Two feet or longer, soft enough for puppy teeth. Fleece or rope.

    Used in: Redirect to a toy, drop it

  • Licking and chewing are calming. A food toy is what makes crate time and alone time something to look forward to.

    What to look for: Sized for your dog, tough rubber, dishwasher safe. Stuff with part of their meal; freeze it to make it last.

    Used in: Closing the crate door, short absences, mat for arrivals

  • Teething puppies will chew something. Rotating a few textures keeps their own things more interesting than yours.

    What to look for: Sized so it can’t be swallowed, and soft enough to dent with a thumbnail. Ask your vet if you’re unsure what suits your dog.

    Used in: Chewing and the evening crazies

  • A dog who barks at everything passing the window is practicing it all day. Blocking the view at dog height removes the trigger.

    What to look for: Static-cling film is removable. You only need to cover the bottom part of the glass.

    Used in: Demand barking and window barking

What to skip

  • Retractable leashes. They reward pulling by giving more line.
  • Shock, prong and choke collars. We teach reward-based methods only.
  • Bark collars. They don’t address why the dog is barking.
  • A second dog to fix alone-time trouble. It rarely does.

Gear helps. The plan is what trains the dog.

Take the free two-minute quiz and get a plan built for your dog: one five-minute guided session a day, and a coach who knows your dog.

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